Posts Tagged ‘Strands’

How Bristle Dartboards Developed

Thursday, November 5th, 2009

Tony Warne asked:


Nobody knows when the first dartboard was made, but early boards were made from log ends of elm. Some were made from plastacine and had to be smoothed after each leg played with a hot iron.

Today’s boards are made of sisal fibre which are the strands from a cactus of the Sisalana family. These boards were called “Bristle boards “, which has nothing to do with pigs bristle, that was a nickname given to them in the early days.

The first bristle boards were made by an English company called Nodor, which by the way come from the words “No Odor” because the plastacine board gave off a terrible smell, when smoothed using the hot iron.

Nodor boards are still made by the same company, and hold the original patent. One thing for sure nobody has more experience of making dartboards. They are by far the largest of the competition dartboard manufacturers.

The actual manufacture is done in the following manner.

The leaves of the sisal plant are harvested and stripped of there exterior skin. Then the leaves are squeezed free of their natural liquids and the fibres combed.

These metre long strands of fibre are then put into the sun to dry naturally. These processes are carried out close to the fields were the leaves are gathered. The sisal plantations are usually in Africa, but there are others in parts of china and South America.

The first thing that is done to the sisal when being made into a dartboard is as follows:

The sisal strands are put into a graded combing machine, which has several stages. It is then pulled through a second machine, which rolls the sisal like a never-ending cigarette.

This roll which is about 5 inches in diameter is then sliced across into what is known as biscuits. These biscuits are about 1 inch thick and are very even.

The next operation is to press the board. This is done on a flat bed press, which is oval in shape. Inside this press is placed the bands of steel the surround the board.

Then inside the bands the sisal biscuits are placed, the number of biscuits controls the hardness or softness of the finished product.

The next stage is to cover the biscuits in glue and place on the wooden backboard. When this is done the press is activated and compresses the sisal until it is perfectly round.

The glue used has a very fast cueing rate and it can be removed from the press immediately so the next one can be made.

The board is then put through a wide belt sander to level and remove any loose strands of sisal. This treatment also make the surface very smooth so that the next operation, which is to screen print the colours, gives the board a nice clean image.

The final operation is to wire the board into its different sections, and fit the number ring.

Up to only a few years ago the wire used has always been 1.6 mm spring steel for the whole wire system. Now many manufactures use thin blades for all or part of the wire system, which prevents many of the bouncing darts that was common on the original wiring method.

One of the first to use this method was Alana Darts which registered the blade interlocking system with a patent lawyer on the 31st May 1991. The provisional number issued by the Australian Patent, Trade Marks and Designs Offices was P2370.

Unfortunately the patent was dropped due to the huge costs involved.

The Original method of using round wires only did have one very good advantage. That was the bristles in the board allowed the dart easy *********** by moving out of the way of the point, while still being firm enough to grip the dart well.

This gave the board a very long life as little damage was caused to the bristles.

The all-bladed board also had its own advantages; few bouncing darts, higher scores, and higher averages. Also they looked better than the cluttered up round wire system.Its draw back however is that the bristles cannot move as they are locked in position by the blades. This means that when a dart strikes the point can push in several bristle fibres on entry. The result is what is called in the business compacting.

This is where the sisal is doubled up into the board and hard spots develop, in turn making the surface appear fluffy. The result is a shorter life, although the good has to be weighed up against the bad.

In saying this I must point out that a lot of the damage done to bladed boards could be avoided, if the players would keep their dart points in top condition, even if it means changing them on a regular basis. Unfortunately this is not done enough, and the manufacturer of the board receives the blame for short lived products.

Another problem the modern board has the use of tungsten darts, Which has improved the accuracy of the player due to the dart being slimmer in other words allowing for tighter grouping.

If you are looking for a good brisle dartboard, or darts accessories, visit us at www.dartshop.com.au



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Lace Materials for Hair Pieces

Friday, March 30th, 2007

Hassan_Ahmed asked:


 

Lace materials for hair replacements and particularly fronts have become a hot ticket in the industry.  It isn’t a surprise considering the appearance one gets from a lace is as close to reality as you can get.

 

There are several types of lace materials in the market and each has it’s own properties that make it special but there are some created names out there so it is wise to know what you really want.

 

Fine Welded Mono Lace:  Probably one of the most popular due to it’s durability yet it still has a very nice finished look for the client who just wants a natural front in case the wind blows.  Fine Welded Mono is an open weave nylon monofilament material that is literally welded using an ultrasonic welder at each point where two strands of the monofilament meet.  This method makes the material very strong which helps with fraying along the edge. Fine Welded Mono Lace can be easily heat set and requires no tailoring or darting to maintain its shape and holds up very well.  The down side to the material is that it is stiff and for some it can be uncomfortable or scratchy and it doesn’t have as fine an appearance for those wanting to wear their hair back exposing the hair line.   However for anyone with NON sensitive skin or if you just want the immediate look to be natural but don’t have the front hair line completely exposed 100% of the time, this is a great way to go.

 

French Lace:  Used for many years in the theatrical world, French Lace gives a very natural look for the front hair line as well as for the body of a hair piece.  French Lace is soft to the touch and very flexible.  The down side to French Lace is that it is a bit delicate and requires care when wearing a system with this material.  It is usually advised that the front edge of a French Lace system be scalloped or Pinked with a pinking shear to help minimize and delay fraying.  During the course of wear the front edge can be cut back as it frays up to the hair line with no problem.  Bases made of this material are also more delicate so care should be given when brushing and combing the hair to avoid catching the material in the brush or comb causing the base to tear.

 

Swiss Lace or Swiss Net:  This is really the ultimate lace material.  It is very fine in appearance and when applied to the skin literally disappears.  Swiss Net is more expensive than French Lace so it is often promoted but just as often substituted with French Lace.  Unfortunately consumers who don’t really know the difference cannot tell if they have Real Swiss Lace or its less expensive counter part, but seeing the two materials together you will see the differences quite clearly.  The main difference is its more transparent look and it is a bit finer, therefore more delicate than French Lace but the finished look is truly the ultimate for Lace Materials.

 

 



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